I’m anything but a fashionista. My closet is lined with
seasons past, off the rack. But like any good Southern girl, I was brought up
with a healthy respect for the number one fashion rule: wear no white after
Labor Day.
My earliest dress-up memories involve little white gloves
with pearl buttons and white patent shoes, Sunday best attire that must have
been a nightmare for my mother to keep clean at our rural Florida
home. She added a white pill box hat to her ensemble. In those days, Labor Day meant
no more white shorts, shirts, shoes, dresses, slacks, jackets, and anything
else that might qualify as a fashion faux pas until the dawn of Easter Sunday. Meanwhile, we opted for other colors, except black, typically reserved for funerals.
These days, I am proud to be liberated from such nonsense.
I live in northeast Oklahoma,
where today, one day after Labor Day, heat indices are expected to hit 110 and
record temperatures are predicted through October. Because of an extensive
drought, we remain under a burn ban. I don’t leave the house without a jug of
water, and avoid going outdoors, except under duress.
To be denied lightweight white clothing would be cruel and
unusual punishment in these times. So that little custom about packing away
white clothing after Labor Day can take a hike.
In fact, it already has, according to one friend who says
the rules changed in the 1980s. I’m embarrassed to say that, in traditional
non-fashionista style, I continued to spend Labor Day evenings tucking summer wear into
plastic clothes bins well into the ‘00s.
Only a few years ago did I abandon this habit. Liberation came to my
fall wardrobe in the form of white capris on Thanksgiving Day. It was 90
degrees in November. Just how long can we keep up traditions that don’t fit the
way we live?
I owe this awakening to a college student whom I never met
but whose white shorts inspired the “aha” moment that made me question the fashion
guidelines learned from my mother and aunts. It was an unseasonably warm autumn day. Fortuitous
was I to grab the last parking spot in the lot nearest my office after a late
lunch. “Doesn’t she know the rule?” I wondered as the co-ed in white shorts
hurried past my car. I reached for my seasonally correct black wool-blend
jacket and trudged onward through the day.
It was then I noticed that there were violators all around
me. Someone in my office was wearing a white t-shirt; another had on white
slacks! And I remembered seeing the president’s secretary in a white linen
jacket earlier in the day. I hung up my own jacket, rolled up my sleeves, and pondered
the women’s liberation movement that was supposed to have freed us to be ourselves.
Did that include making our own fashion rules?
As a college student during Gerald Ford's administration, when many
of us wore non-conformity as a badge of honor, wearing white after Labor Day didn't warrant discussion. It simply wasn't done. I’ve no doubt my dorm mates would have heckled anyone in
the halls who slipped up and wore white bell-bottoms to class in September.
But like a lot of other rules and traditions, no-white
doesn’t fit in a post-911, global-warming world. On my day of awakening, as I
noticed friends and co-workers who are fashionistas breezing through that
hot, humid fall afternoon dressed according to the weather and not some outdated
rule, I felt like the Equal Rights Amendment of 1973 had finally passed.
As it turns out, the no-white rule traces back to a time
when the wealthy fled crowded, industrial cities when the school year ended for
vacation homes where cool, white clothing was preferred. From a practical
standpoint, it reflected the hot sun and better suited their leisurely summer activities. So the rich owned separate summer wardrobes distinguished by the color white, from the tips of their
fedora hats to the toes of their patent leather shoes.. Socially, it signified
affluence, in contrast to those who remained to toil in their year-round grays
and browns. Labor Day – a Populist holiday, created in tribute to the workers
who made these annual pilgrimages possible – signaled the official end of
summer. And so those who stepped off the ferry or detrained from the Orange
Blossom Special conveyed status to those left behind, bedecked as they were in white before their transition back to the real world and colder weather, darker colors and
heavier fabrics.
Fast forward past the Great Depression and World War II to a
country of baby boomers whose birthright included summer vacations in automobiles that took them to all manner of
magical places. As Americans caught the travel bug, family summer wardrobes
took on a casual, comfortable look previously reserved for the privileged. People
on vacation required lighter, cooler clothing that's easy to wash and wear. What
better than white? And so the masses, too, marked Labor Day with a wardrobe change as
school started and work schedules returned to normal. We were following a
practical tradition.
Enter fashion designers whose mission it was to define the
rules by which the well-dressed should abide. Seasonal wardrobes became more
distinctive (in places other than Florida,
where in theory we could, and often did, wear the same clothes year-round) to
support the burgeoning ready-to-wear industry. To display any degree of fashion
sense, it was imperative to pack away white on Labor Day and introduce darker,
more autumnal colors on racks and backs.
Even in tropical Florida.
An informal poll of friends and family reveals most of us
are independent thinkers when it comes to the clothes we wear. Give us simplicity,
comfort over style, practicality over fashion, and forget about rules whose
time has passed. If you aren’t making your own rules, you’re falling behind the
times. That makes us fashionistas, one and all.
So here’s to wearing white, or any other color, after Labor Day. And that’s how it should be.